TEXT or EMAIL us for our Training Questionnaire prior to booking! 832-412-1656
TEXT or EMAIL us for our Training Questionnaire prior to booking! 832-412-1656
There is a large selection of gear out there. Certain gear propels you, while others provide a major disservice. To help you navigate options, I've made a list of
my favorite and effective training gear.
You need to be as hands-free as possible. No ziplock bags in your hands while training! Get a treat bag that you can easily put your hand into, not just your fingers. Don't overweigh it with your phone, keys, wallet, etc. You also need effective training rewards: small and quickly chewable so you can get quick repetitions in...not huge like biscuits!
EVERY dog needs enrichment! This is a fancy term for: The process of improving a dog's quality of life by modifying their environment. The goal is to increase the dog's behavioral diversity, encourage positive environmental use, and help them cope with challenges. These are mainly food related. Read more: https://www.petsradar.com/advice/what-is-dog-enrichment
Excellent item to use for kennel training, teaching your dog to be alone, remain occupied while guests are over/you're eating dinner/doing chores, entertainment for busy mornings or evenings, the list goes on. Usually safe unsupervised, but know the dog you have and use caution as needed.
Dogs are foragers. Bowls defeat the innate desire of a dog's foraging behavior. This is a great way to stimulate your dog's senses to search for their food. I also love using the backyard to scatter feed, or somewhere appropriate on walk. Do not leave these with your dog unsupervised.
Slow your dog's eating down by using a slow feeder bowl. This can help improve digestion (snuffle mats or scatter feeding do too!). This is the one I personally use.
Increase the challenge but remember not to make it frustrating to the point your dog doesn't eat. This is a fun one! Dogs have to pull at the ropes to undo their food. Encourages brainwork by problem solving. Do not leave these with your dog unsupervised.
My dog, Onyx, loves this one. Increase the challenge but remember not to make it frustrating to the point your dog doesn't eat. This one has a lot of holes to hide food! Do not leave these with your dog unsupervised.
VERY hard. For dogs who blow through everything else very easily, give this to them. There aren't as many holes, but they are tight and difficult to get into. Increase the challenge but remember not to make it frustrating to the point your dog doesn't eat. Do not leave these with your dog unsupervised.
There are many types of training collars. Please never purchase a "prong collar" from the general petstore unless it is Herm Sprenger brand (the petstore prong collars are useless for training) or an Ecollar unless it is the Mini Educator by Ecollar Technologies or made by Dogtra. These are the brands many trainers stand by and recommend.
Dogs may slip out of collars/training collars, gentle leaders fall off, or the prongs pop off which releases your dog. The safety strap keeps you connected to your dog in case of an accident.
A buckle release allows you to put the prong collar on and off without having to pinch a prong off to do so. Some people like this, others do not care.
Some dogs require more links than provided for their neck size. A proper fit is a must!
Model 280c (1 dog)
These are the harnesses I recommend if your dog is not a very strong puller, not leash reactive, but relatively easy to walk. I also recommend these for hikes or decompression walks. For training a dog with relatively zero skills or poor walking skills, do not clip them on the back-connect of any harness.
Use this harness if your dog is relatively easy to walk and control. Training = clip your leash on the front for more control. Also good for hikes or decompression walks, which you can clip your leash on the back.
Use this harness if you do not want to use a prong collar, clip your leash on the front. This harness helps restrict movement to make handling easier for you.
Unless your dog is very well trained, I do not recommend this harness for training. It is great for hikes, decompression walks, or for dogs who are very well trained.
Ideally, you want a leash that is very easy to hold (Not full of grip points, poop bag holders, etc.). Make sure it's not too chunky or heavy for your dog or yourself, or opposite...too weak for your dog. Steer clear from bungee leashes unless you are running with your dog. Retractable leashes will ruin your training (unless for Recall). Stick with a standard leather, nylon, or rope leash.
https://mountaindogproducts.com/product/hands-free-mini-slip-leash/
This leash is incredible! It can be used hands-free (cross-body leash), as a slip leash, or it will clip to your dog's training collar/gear. I use this leash constantly. it is pricey, but I do not regret it. 10 ft is perfect for most dogs, and helps with recall.
**I have these in stock sometimes! Inquire with me.
This is an excellent alternative to the Mountain Dog Slip Leash. It is less costly and available on Amazon.
Longlines are a must for building recall, trust, and distance behaviors. Build the recall (and other behaviors) before using an Ecollar. You can graduate to 30 ft or more as your dog improves with training.
These are great for continuing to build behaviors in-home. They are much shorter than a standard leash so your dog doesn't get stuck on furniture inside, or winds up tangled within the leash.
Every dog needs to learn "Place" training. Typically, elevated beds improve your dog's understanding of the "Place" command. They are also comfortable!
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